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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.